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Archive for the 'Foundation' Category

January 13th, 2009
By APCHQ

Insulated formwork is an interesting option for residential foundations.  As the formwork remains in place after the cement hardens, it assures a superior energetic performance.  Moreover, the cement poured into this formwork is maintained in better curing conditions which improves its quality and limits the number of cracks.

Starting from the foundation’s footing, the walls of the foundation are mounted by superimposing hollow blocks made of polystyrene.  In order to ensure the base of the formwork is leak proof urethane is projected beneath the first row.  Steel armature composed of vertical and horizontal bars is inserted in the blocks, which gives the foundation a superior resistance to cracks.

Once the wall is mounted, the cement is poured.  Leak proofing is assured by a waterproofing membrane placed on the exterior insulation beneath soil level.

The choice of insulated formwork is certainly a step in the direction of lasting development.  Among the causes of deterioration of cement, humidity is at the top of the list, while a bad curing is responsible for the appearance of cracks.  Leak proofing and curing the cement in such conditions increases the longevity of the foundation.

September 3rd, 2008
By Jessica Langlois

It is important to ask ourselves, “What is the main reason for pouring your foundation very early on in the project and leaving it all winter without building on it?” Certain contractors pour their foundations during the winter due to the fact that they have teams constantly moving from place to place and are always ready to build, even during the cold season.

It is a common practice in Quebec to pour foundations 12 months a year. The snow itself poses no real problems but rather serves as insulation. As for the foundation walls, it is suggested to add a membrane on them in order to avoid frost from sticking to it.

In regards to the footings, they will be exposed to the winter climate. They could be exposed to freezing and thawing which could cause them to be unstable. If the wood floors at ground level are not built upon the foundations, according to the building code, backfill must not be used any higher than 3 ft. 11 in. on foundations with a thickness of 8”. If the wood floor is built, it is permissible to backfill to 7 ft. and 6 in. high.

As for the CMHC, they unfortunately have no technical counsellors regarding this subject.

We also consulted the Canadian Cement Association and like us, they do not recommend pouring foundations in the fall without continuing the construction immediately for the same reasons as mentioned above.

It is therefore preferable to wait until spring to pour the foundation. This way, the expensive machinery will only have to be brought in once and you will avoid any major problems that could occur. Should you decide to go ahead, be sure to follow the correct steps in order to put all chances on your side and hope that nothing moves!

Keep us posted on your decision and invite the professionals in your region to comment on our reply. Some may have tricks of the trade that we do not know about.

We look forward to hearing from you!

 

August 19th, 2008
By Denis Chamberland

To tell the truth, this question is asked frequently!  It is obviously not easy to give a precise cost due to the imponderables that are connected to it.

First, it depends on the type of ground on which the garage will be built.  You can choose among various foundation types such as monolithic floating slabs or monolithic floating slabs that reinforce the periphery in order to properly receive exterior walls and any other attachments. Already, a variant in the amount of  1000$ to 2000$ may be applied. In most case, a monolithic slab would prove to be less expensive.

Will you hire a builder to build the entire garage, or only the structural part and you will do the rest to save money?  Your choice here will result in a cost variation of between 3000$ to 5000$ that you must consider if you hire specialized manpower.

Will your detached garage be insulated to enable you to do odd jobs all year round?  Will it be erected with 2 x 4’s or 2 x 6’s? Technical-wise, will you have electricity, heating and plumbing in your garage?  There are other important elements that have considerable influence on building costs. We can easily say there is a variance of 2000$ to 3000$ if not more. Of course, this is according to the size of the garage.

Finally, many garage plans suggest bonus spaces at the ceiling for additional storage. Will this space be built as planned or will it be eliminated and built with trusses and a window? If you opt to keep this extra space, will it be insulated or only done in plywood?

You will now understand that with all these possibilities, it becomes very difficult to set firm construction costs for a detached garage, but since you have taken the time to read this article, here is an example that could serve as a reference guide.

To order garade plan 2975-16: 1-800-567-5267

www.DrummondHousePlans.com Plan no.2975

Let’s say that you are interested in the detached garage no. 2975-16, which is 16’ wide by 24’ deep. You are planning to erect it with 4 vinyl sides on a monolithic foundation with 2 x 4’s, as well as with the bonus space planned on the upper floor but not insulated. A minimum of electrical facilities is included but there is no plumbing or heating. The cement footing, the structure and the roofing (finishing of these steps included), would be done by the contractor whereas you would be responsible for both the interior and exterior finishing. Well, this garage should cost approximately 14500$

You can review Drummond House Plans’ detached garage plans, and order the one that fits your housestyle!

January 30th, 2008
By Timbermart

When will my new house be ready?

Building a new home should be one of the most exciting times of your life.  It can also be one of the most nerve-wracking. New home construction can easily involve over 50 subcontractors and suppliers, 200 people and more than 10,000 pieces of material.  Although complex, the home building process is a carefully designed and managed process to ensure that you get the house of your dreams on time and on budget.

There are a number of factors that can influence a construction timeline such as weather, number of workers, special requests and the complexity of the design, but most new home constructions follow similar stages and time frames.

Here’s a basic timeframe to help you understand what typically happens and when.

STAGE 1: Site preparation

- Obtain municipal and provincial permits
- Begin site work and excavation
- Pour foundation or slab
- Frame floors
- Rough-in electrical and plumbing under floors
- Install first subfloor
Timeframe: 1-3 months

STAGE 2: Framing

- Frame interior and exterior walls including door and window openings, roof and ceilings
- Rough-in remaining electrical and plumbing lines throughout the structure
- Apply exterior wall and roof sheathing
- Install reaming subfloors
Timeframe: 2-3 months

STAGE 3: Exterior Finish and Inspection

- Inspect mechanical rough-in and exposed structural work
- Apply roof flashing and shingles
- Windows and exterior doors are installed
- Apply exterior trim
- Apply exterior wall finish material
Timeframe: 2 months

STAGE 4: Interior Finish

- Cabinets and countertops are installed
- Install ceramic tile in baths and other flooring throughout
- Complete plumbing and electrical work
- Complete sheetrock, paint and wallpaper
Timeframe: 2 months

STAGE 5: Finishing touches

- Install hardware and appliances
- Complete any landscaping
- Touch-up for final inspections by homeowner, contractor and building inspector
- Final payment to contractor
- Move in
Timeframe: 2 months

December 19th, 2007
By Timbermart

When you’re thinking about building a new home it’s pretty easy to get caught up in thinking only about the sticks and bricks of the structure.  Many people overlook the fact that the lot you choose to build on can be just as important a factor in determining your future happiness as the home itself. Before you get too involved in the details of you house plan, it can pay to invest some time I finding the perfect lot.  There are a number of key questions that you can ask yourself to help determine what lot is right for you.

DO YOU ALREADY HAVE A HOMEPLAN?

If you already have your dream home planned, and you know the style and size, then it makes sense to look for a lot that will complement and maximize you design. If you don’t have a house plan yet, then you may want to search for the perfect lot and then design a home to fit.

WHERE DO YOU WANT TO LIVE?

Knowing in advance where you want to live will help you stay focused and avoid throwing lots that don’t meet your need into the mix.  If you are new to an area, find a knowledgeable real estate agent to help in your search.  You must also consider proximity to shopping, schools, churches, playgrounds, and work.  All of these factors influence property and resale value. Finally you should carefully research the value of other homes in the area. As a rule of thumb, you will want the value of your home and the lot to be approximately the same as others in the area.  Having too high or too low a value for the neighbourhood can make it more difficult to sell your home in the future. You should also take the time to check for area zoning restrictions or restrictive covenants that might limit your freedom to build the house you want.

IS THE LOT LARGE ENOUGH?

More than likely there will be some setbacks that will leave only a portion of the lot for the actual house.  How much back and front yard space do you want? Will there be a driveway? Will you be building a garage? These are all things that you must consider. Even if the garage might be a future addition, it’s smart to think about it now.  You will also want to check for any easements on the lot.  An easement is an area on the lot that is restricted from building.  Most easements are for utility line access.

WHAT IS THE TOPOGRAPHY LIKE?

A flat lot is much less expensive to prepare and build on, but a sloping lot can be much more scenic. You should also be wary of lots in low spots that may be prone to flooding. No matter what lot you are considering, take the time to visit it after a heavy rainfall to evaluate the drainage. Take the time to look for the sun direction as well. Many homeowners will orient their house to maximize natural light exposure. Don’t stop at what’s above ground either. The type of soil or rock under the ground can affect how easily you will be able to dig a foundation and how well it will support you home.  Bedrock is very expensive to dig through, while clay soils expand and contract which could cause cracks and leaky basements.

WHAT WILL YOU WANT IN THE FUTURE?

We will go through changes in our lives, and having a lot that gives you the flexibility to accommodate these changes is a big plus.  Whether it’s an addition to the family that requires an addition to the house, or maybe a new garage or swimming pool, you don’t want to find yourself somewhere down the road without sufficient space.

FINAL THOUGHT

It’s very difficult to find a lot that meets all of your criteria.  In many cases there are trade-offs to be made, so list your criteria in order of important. If you find yourself overwhelmed, you can seek the services of a landscape architect, surveyor or professional contractor to help you make the right decision.

November 21st, 2007
By Timbermart

Adding a garage is not only practical – it also increases the resale value of your property. With planning, excavation, foundation, construction, electrical and other costs, a simple garage can easily cost upwards of $10 000. Such an important project requires some serious planning.

WHAT CAN YOU AFFORD?

Budget is the starting point with just about any construction project. A garage is no different. Start by deciding how much you can afford to invest in your new garage.

DETERMINE YOUR NEEDS

How you plan to use the garage is the largest factor influencing design. Will you use the garage for:

- Parking a vehicle or vehicles?
- Storage?
- Workshop?
- Additional accommodations?

Will the garage require;

Electrical outlets?
Windows or a service door?
Heating or insulation?

Take time to carefully consider all of the uses you want now and in the future. You may only have one car now, but down the road you might wish you had planned for a two-car garage.

DETERMINE THE SIZE

An unnecessarily large garage will cut the amount of useable space on your property, while one that is too small will limit its uses. When is comes to size, build as large as possible while still being practical and affordable. This will allow maximum flexibility for the future even if all the space is not used right away.

To better visualize the layout of your garage, do a sketch on graph paper including rough size dimensions. This will help when discussing the project with a professional.

DESIGN THE PLANS

Regardless of whether you purchase plans or have them custom designed; you will require them in order to receive the necessary building permits from your town or municipality.

OBTAIN PERMITS

Your plans will need to be approved by local authorities that will issue the appropriate building permits. Often multiple permits are required for electrical, structural, foundation and other work. Check with your local municipality for the complete regulations in your area. Remember that obtaining permits is not optional – it is a legal requirement.

PLANNING CONSTRUCTION

Your final decision is whether to hire a contractor or build it yourself. Although doing it yourself will save on labour, building a garage is a complex project that should not be undertaken by inexperienced individuals.

A contractor can manage every step of construction including permits and working with sub-trades like foundation and electrical. You may spend a little more, but the results will be worth it.

TYPICAL PROJECT COSTS WILL INCLUDE:

Plans and materials estimate
Permits
Financing costs
Site preparation, excavating and grading
Foundation / footings
Framing and carpentry
Roofing
Insulation
Windows and doors
Exterior siding
Electrical
Plumbing

 



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